From September 18 - September 23, I had the fortune to travel to Japan for my vacation. Without too much preparation on my part, I managed to attend four different experimental noise shows. Key to my success was Jessica Hallock’s nycnoise and a link to DoDIY, where they had a link to Tokyo Gig Guide. Also if you hear about a venue, you can look it up on Tokyo Gig Guide, and all of the relevant information you need is listed there, even if the event itself is not listed. I also looked up one of the bands who played in Seattle, Leech. This is how I heard about the show at El Puente. If you know someone who played Japan on a tour, look up the venues they played at to get a feel for the venues who might also have the same sort of music you might be interested in.
I suggest if you are staying in Tokyo to stay at either CITAN Hostel or Nui. Hostel & Bar Lounge. I first stayed at Nui for 2 nights then 3 nights at a different hotel 1 block away from CITAN. Both are convenient for navigating around the city. If you are visiting Japan, you also need to get an IC card for riding transit. You can either do when you arrive at airport, or you can do it at the JR East Travel Service Center at Tokyo Station, near exit M12. You will also need a sim card. If your phone supports eSIM, this is pretty straightforward. If you’re like me and you have an old phone, research it more. I have AT&T Prepaid and they have a flat $35 for 7 days, with unlimited talk and text and 5 GB of data.
In Japan there is the concept of ‘live house’, a general term for public places where music events are held and not the same as a ‘house venue’ where a show is held in someone’s living room or basement. The venues I visited were about the size of a small bar or storefront. You pay a cover charge along with the cost of one drink. The bartender is also often running the soundboard. Some shows might have a request for an RSVP. Don’t feel intimidated, just write a short email you will be attending.
Oriental Force - September 19
Located in Koenji, Google Maps, I walked in here not really knowing what to expect, paid the door took a beer and sat down. The space was rather small with a comfortable capacity of 15, so it felt rather intimate. Much of the music leaned much more noise / experimental. Event Page
Performers include:
- NA/DA
- Gokuraku Shopping Street ( 極楽商店街 )
- YATARA
- Horigome Miho ( ホリゴメミホ ) + cixa
Knuttel House September 20
Located in Iriya, Google Maps, this venue is much more focused on jazz / experimental. Izumi Kunihiro performed a solo set on saxaphone, guitar, and vocals. There were much fewer people attending but the layout of the room was bigger. Event Page
El Puente - September 21
Located in Yokohama, Google Maps, this was the furthest outside of Tokyo I ventured where the fast paced nature of the city turned into the suburbs. The vibe was much more “punk venue”, with tons of graffiti and stickers from international bands, such as “Weekend Nachos 4/13/16”. Music of the bands leaned more in the hardcore and death metal direction.
- Invictus
- brag-flashlamp
- Without Defeat
- YxAxD
- Leech
- Aohen (Taiwan)
Ftarri - September 22
Located in Suidobashi, Google Maps. This was the only show I went to not in a bar, but in a record shop, which of course is always refreshing as the presentation is much more relaxed without having to drink.
Perfomers included: Stina Hellberg Agback [from Sweden], (harp) Suzueri (piano, electronics, self-made instruments) + Toshimaru Nakamura (no-input mixing board).
By the time I arrived I felt so tired and exhausted and the music so relaxing and experimental I didn’t take any photographs of the performance.
Honorable mentions and other resources
See also this article on Japan Cheapo about touring Japan. Although it is written from the perspective of a touring musician, it is still helpful for understanding how music shows happen in Japan. Places I didn’t have a change to visit, but look promising include:
- WWW and WWW X host much larger shows than a live house would.
- Wild Side [Shinjuku], Aohen played at this venue the next night.
- forestlimit [Shibuya City], didn’t visit but was suggested.
- POLARIS [Chiyoda City], didn’t visit but was suggested.
- NEDS [Nishi-Shinjuku], record store, didn’t visit but was suggested.